The Icons - The Summer Shirt

Call me somewhat curmudgeonly but, as a dour Scotsman, there’s not a lot that appeals about the warmer months. Give me the crackling russets and cordite tang of autumn over Ibiza sunrises and Balearic beats any day. But there’s one part of summer, and its lighter, more fluid dress codes, that I relish as soon as the mercury rises: the summer shirt. 

The shirt proper has had a tricky old time of it recently. With working at home still de rigueur for many, structured, formal variants in starched cotton are less in demand than they were. Happily, the summer shirt is the opposite number to his more patrician older brother, and a great deal more fun. Summer shirts immediately set the mood to a more holiday state of mind; they’re a style signal that you’re off-duty (even if you’re just at a picnic in the park rather than Positano). Plus, they’re endorsed by some of the most stylish men of all time.

Take Montgomery Clift in tropical Aloha shirts in From Here To Eternity, Elvis Presley in Blue Hawaii, Sean Connery’s Bond in handsome stripes in Thunderball and a more counter culture style icon in the form of Tony Soprano, the levity of his garishly printed short sleeve shirts the perfect contrast to his menacing skulduggery.

So, what defines a summer shirt? The fabric, structure and fit are what differentiates it from its formal counterparts – soft cotton and linen over silk, and a silhouette that’s relaxed rather than fitted. Then there’s the small details – a spread, camp collar that’s more relaxed, or even Nehru, which gets its name from former Indian Prime Minister Jawaharlal Nehru, a less formal variety for tropical Indian climes. There’s a sartorial school of thought that short sleeves are less sophisticated than long, but that doesn’t necessarily mean they’re off the table for summer – it’s the time when a touch of playfulness is called for, after all. If you’re opting for long sleeves, make sure they’re loose enough to roll up with ease. 

Certain brands have made the subject of shirting their particular USP – Paris-based label Officine Générale, run by designer Pierre Maheo, has preoccupied itself with perfecting the formula for a princely shirt. Relaxed, minimalist and in fabrics that are traceable and of exceptional quality, one of its grandad collar styles is a happy accompaniment to any summer wardrobe. Consider too the more niche, relaxed West Coast brands – rag & bone and James Perse make excellent shirts in low-key, discreet checks. 

The peacocks amongst us will always opt for a lively print in a summer shirt (my own extensive range veers from Versace baroque tendrils to splashy Dries Van Noten tie-dye) and it’s the one time of year when a jazzy pattern feels appropriate, particularly if you’re sipping a brightly-hued cocktail overlooking azure waters. Given that men tend to err on the side of safe same-sameness with their wardrobes, there’s something joyful about embracing a brighter mode of dress once the sun comes out – head to Dolce & Gabbana or Valentino for just the thing. Just keep the rest of your ensemble to simple, one-note items – crisp white trousers for example. 

If you’re apprehensive about the full-on sensory assault of a vividly patterned shirt however, look instead to more subtle motifs; nautical stripes, subtle piping or shirts that nod towards preppy. Take a cue from that enduring stalwart of men’s style JFK and opt for fresh white linens (the most elegant accessory being your Martha’s Vineyard sailboat, of course). And if your style errs on the more experimental side, it’s worth considering pyjama shirting – proper shirts that mimic the appearance of PJs, with piping and rounded collars. It’s a suitably louche and raffish look to ring for sultry summer nights.