The Icons - The Gold Chain

It is no exaggeration to say that I wear a gold chain every day. It is, as they say, part of my ‘uniform’. From delicate and diamond-studded to chunkier, heavier iterations or more decorative, pendant-adorned styles, there is rarely a day where I don’t have some sort of chain looped around my neck.

I remember getting my first chain necklace as a gift from my mum back in school – silver, with a heart pendant, which I hid beneath my school uniform. As a teenager, I wore one with a crucifix, inspired by my obsession with Buffy, rather than for its religious connotations.

For a long time in my 20s, I was particularly enamoured with a double-chain set from Louis Vuitton bearing my initials, while I’m currently wearing a simple fuss-free style by Missoma to write this piece. Although I’ve dabbled with different metals (some of my earliest jewellery gifts were of the stirling silver variety), yellow gold tends to be my shade of choice – although, honestly, life is too short to worry about mixing metals, which I regularly do.

My collection came in particularly useful during those endless lockdowns, when my wardrobe consisted almost entirely of loungewear, leggings and pyjamas. For any Zoom meetings, I’d simply throw on a gold chain and a pair of hoops (preferably both large enough to be picked up on camera), and suddenly I felt put-together. Even the most casual sweater can be transformed with well-placed jewellery.

But it turns out I wasn’t the only one. The New York Times previously reported that many jewellers saw sales double mid-2020, with fine jewellery in particular outperforming other luxury categories. At Harper’s Bazaar, where I’m executive digital editor, traffic to the jewellery section has increased by 316% in comparison to the same period pre-pandemic. 

When you think about it, it’s hardly surprising. Good jewellery is, after all, an investment. If you shop wisely, a gold chain should last you forever. They rarely date, generally go with everything, and are easy to store (but do invest in a jewellery box with individual compartments, unless you want to lose your mind untangling). A chain doesn’t discriminate against age, size, race or gender; you need only try one on to check for preference, rather than fit, making them exceptionally easy (too easy, according to my bank balance), to shop online. You can never really have too many. 

Chains are also widely considered signifiers of love and connection, given their eternal, interlinking design, and are probably one of the best, most thoughtful gifts you can give. Choose a simple style and it’s hard to go wrong, really, and it doesn’t quite have the serious weight or resonance of a ring (you don’t have to think twice about saying yes when presented with a necklace). 

In fact, so popular are chains, that we’ve practically been wearing them since the dawn of civilisation (since around 2500 BC, it’s believed, so slightly before my time), and across all corners of the world. There are early records indicating that the ancient Egyptians wore gold necklaces to ward off evil spirits, while the ancient Greeks also added pendants and precious jewels, and the Romans wore them as body jewellery. Throughout the Middle Ages, chains became associated with power and royalty – displayed decoratively by Kings and Queens (Henry VII was famously a big fan) –and were regularly worn as signifiers of wealth by the social elite and religious leaders. Coco Chanel, arguably the most influential woman in fashion history, wore hers layered with strings of pearls, while no respectable rapper in the ‘80s and ‘90s would be seen without a thick gold neckpiece; the bigger the better.

Fast forward to modern day, and the humble chain is capable of viral appeal. So obsessed were we with the chain worn by Paul Mescal’s character Connell in Normal People that an Instagram account dedicated to it quickly amassed 150k+ followers when launched by writer Billie Bhatia in 2020. Today’s most fashionable women are rarely seen without one – from royals like Kate and Meghan, to supermodels like Gigi, Karlie and Naomi. And there are so many options available: look to jewellers like Kenneth Jay Lane for chunky, gold-plated styles; Cornelia Webb for something more delicate; or Rosantica for something more decorative; while fashion brands like Chloé, Off-White and JW Anderson offer fun, layerable options.

Perhaps most importantly - beyond its historic significance, cultural references or fashion status - jewellery is sentimental. It holds literal value, sure, but also the emotional kind. Your most precious pieces are probably those that you inherited, were given as a gift, or bought for yourself to mark a special occasion. Therein lies the unique appeal of the gold chain: a piece that can be special enough to treasure, yet simple enough to be worn every day.