The Icons - Ankle Boots

It is my opinion that women fall into one of two categories: there are those who feel complete the second they slide their feet into a pair of high heels and those who, put in terms appropriate for this platform, feel entirely ridiculous. Having long found myself feeling more exposed in a pair of four-inch stilettos than I do in a string bikini, it’s fair to conclude that I am a longstanding resident in the latter camp. Actually, given the beads of cold sweat that puddle in the nape of my neck every time I brave a strappy sandal, I could probably be elected as its mayor. 

To this end, the ankle boot - humble, comforting, deliciously understated - is exceptional. Indeed, it’s the only pair of heeled footwear I don’t routinely chicken out of wearing (by which I mean you won’t see me quickly whipping them off in favour of ‘nice’ Birkenstocks or a pair of lived-in New Balance runners before heading for the door). 

An audit of my friends confirms that I’m not alone. While many women shy away from heels, finding them too OTT (too try-hard) to make it through the day (and night), the ankle boot is something of a leveller. 

A halfway point, the ankle boot is neither intimidating nor lacklustre. Instead, it’s ubiquitous, versatile and yes, where heels are concerned, it’s as inclusive as footwear gets. An accessory for the woman who wants to blend in beautifully, ankle boots appeal because they’re all about standing alongside the crowd instead of sticking out from it. This shoe style, practical enough to run for the bus while being glamorous enough to see you through impromptu drinks after work, is also immensely versatile. 

Undoubtedly it’s the fact that a pair of ankle boots are a match for everything from a flowing cocktail gown to your favourite pair of ‘hangover jeans’ that has ensured them a role in every chapter in fashion history. Their story starts at some point during the 1600s - picture Louis XIV swanning through the halls of Versailles in his scarlet red Cuban heels - and then moves on to Victorian women about town - most wore pixie-toe boots with a button fastening. From there, with a few twists and turns along the way, this tale winds through the Sixties (block heels), Seventies (platforms) and Eighties (spike Robert Palmer vibes) before landing in 2021. 

Modern-day icons include the Acne pistol boot (if you’re not familiar with it, you’ve almost certainly encountered its aspirants) and Balenciaga’s neoprene shoe-boot, which went down a storm with the Kardashians. Saint Laurent’s iconic rock’n’roll style, a nod to ankle boot ambassador extraordinaire Ziggy Stardust, has also earned its place in ankle-boot history. 

On the subject of legendary ankle boot wearers, notable mentions include Kate Moss - who has a pair to suit every occasion from classic black leather to silver and splayed with sequins - and Victoria Beckham, who habitually pulls on a pair before passing through an airport. 

With every season comes a new iteration of the fashion world’s most worn shoe. 

The thing with ankle boots though, is that they are more of a fashion failsafe than something you should expect to move on from in a hurry which means trends, while nice to acknowledge, are mostly irrelevant. The best on offer are built to stand the test of time. I’d recommend bearing this in mind when considering your autumn wardrobe. The ankle boots of which your dreams are made is the pair that offers quiet sophistication to your look. Like a good haircut, the best ankle boots go unnoticed, lending a polished edge to your outfit without making a screaming statement. The exceptionally marvellous among them also age with all the grace of a fine wine - I have a pair of black leather APC boots that look as relevant today as they did when I first clapped eyes on them a decade ago. I enjoy an equally meaningful relationship with a pair of tan patent boots by Aeyde which, at a towering two-and-a-half inches, are the most vertiginous thing in my wardrobe.